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Homemade cake mascara

9/9/2012

13 Comments

 
(Note: This post became unexpectedly popular on Pinterest. I must caution you that I originally made this mascara as an experiment and not a cosmetic item I intent wear daily. While none of the ingredient I used should cause any significant problems if they get into eyes,  I cannot guarantee that your body will not react to any of the ingredients so use at your own risk. In addition note that soap is not waterproof and can be irritating if it gets into your eyes.)
PictureImage credit: Costumes.org
I remember reading a biography of actress Louise Brooks, it discussed how Vaudeville dancers would use a very primitive form of mascara (left). It is essentially a cylinder of black wax. To use it one must slice some off and melt it in a tiny frying pan over a candle. I recently read an article about cake mascara. It is much easier to use than wax mascara and its popularity lasted for over six decades. I found out that the original Maybelline cake mascara was made from equal parts of soap and pigment, which are very easy to obtain. I was very curious to try cake mascara, so I made my own to experiment with.

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Maybelline Cake Mascara. Photo credit: Cosmeticsandskin.com
You will need only four items to make cake mascara. Soap, pigment, a container, and a mascara wand. Get the most unscented and natural soap as possible to avoid irritation (this is VERY important). I got mine from Whole Foods for $3. You can use pigment of any color you want, I just used the only black one I have. I normally wouldn't wear mascara with sparkles, but this is just an experiment and I didn't want to waste carbon black pigments that I care about.

For container I used a free sample compact I got from TKB Trading. You can use contact case that you don't use, empty eyeshadow compact, etc. Shallow containers will work better. Whatever you use, just make sure you wash it very clean and sanitize it with alcohol first.

In actual vintage cake mascara they include a tiny brush for applying, but I found modern mascara wand much easier to use. You can either wash clean a mascara wand from an old  tube of mascara or grab some from aisle endcaps at Sephora.
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Pigment, soap, and container
First thing you will need to do is melt the soap. Remember to keep the ratio of soap and pigment to 1:1, so you don't really need a lot of soap. Natural handmade soap should be very easy to cut in room temperature. Cut it into small pieces for easy melting. I like to use silicone baking cups when melting things because they are easy to clean. Add a few drops of olive oil for a more smooth texture. Heat soap in the microwave in an increment of 30 seconds. It may or may not liquify, but it's fine as long as it softens enough to incorporate the pigment. 
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Have the pigment ready while the soap is melting. Stir the soap slightly with a toothpick and quickly incorporate the pigment. Next heat the soap the second time to mix the mixture more thoroughly. The end result should look like clay.
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Pack the mixture into the container. Pat down so the surface is level. Cleaning up should be very easy, since the mixture is soap and can be easily washed away.
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To use, first bend the brush head of the mascara wand for a better reach. Wet the wand with a tiny bit of water and rub it against the cake. Apply like regular mascara and wash the wand clean after use.
13 Comments
Audrey
8/21/2013 03:06:36 am

I made this mascara today and it is without a doubt the best I've ever tried. Can't thank you enough for this wonderful post. :-)

Reply
cecikierk
8/21/2013 05:36:42 pm

No problem! Glad you like it.

Reply
Sandra
10/4/2013 08:24:41 pm

Hi!
Thanks for this recipe I cant wait to try it
just one Q though:
What actually is the Pigment made of and where do
you buy it from?
Kind regards
Sandra. Sydney Australia

Reply
cecikierk
10/5/2013 06:27:59 am

I just used loose pigment eyeshadow (hence the sparkles) since it was just an experiment. I made later batches with matte pigments from TKB Trading: http://www.tkbtrading.com/category.php?category_id=102

They are much more finely powdered so they are smoother in mascara. All of the colors should work in mascara as long as it says "approved for eyes" in the "Additional Info" link. ( There isn't much of a difference between the 3 black ones they sell).

In the original mascara they would use soot or powdered charcoal as pigment, I haven't try that yet.

Reply
Sandra
10/5/2013 11:16:09 am

Thanks!
Another Q:
Do you find that the mascara smudges or you get panda eyes?
If your eyes water or you get a bit weepy during your favourite chick flick does it run? :)
Sandra Sydney Australia

Diane link
10/23/2014 04:45:32 am

How would you sanitize soot or charcoal?

cecikierk
10/5/2013 07:14:54 pm

(Sorry for some reason I can't reply to your last comment, so I'll reply here)

The mascara doesn't smudge or flake at all unless you have oily eyelids. However it is not waterproof since none of the ingredient is waterproof.

Reply
Andi
7/19/2014 02:01:02 am

I haven't yet tried making the cake mascara, definitely plan to. I really would like to find the eye ladh brush that was used with Maybeline cake mascara. Where can I buy one? And did Maybeline cake mascara come in the red plastic slide case?

Reply
Diane link
10/23/2014 04:24:35 am

I used the Mabelline cake mascara thru my teen years in the 60's. It came in the red plastic slide case with a wonderful little brush. I am considering making this recipe because currently marketed cake products may contain thimerosol which I believe is a mercury based product or other ingredients containing the prefix "prop" which is associated with health risks.

Reply
Sabine
12/21/2014 07:32:13 am

Can I use this cake mascara as an eyeliner as well??

Reply
Andi
1/7/2015 03:15:26 am

Where do I get the black carbon pigment?
I would prefer the original Maybelline cake mascara brush, were can I buy one like it? I've seen some for eyebrows but they are too thick and stiff. Any suggestions?

Reply
Sabine
1/7/2015 03:24:33 am

I tried this mascara, but it burnt in my eyes! Does anyone have another idea for making cake mascara?

Reply
arrow
8/11/2015 02:30:43 am

From what I have read on the web, Maybelline repaced soap with triethanolamine stearate, or stearic acid, it's not alcaline, nor any sulfates, so it doesn't sting the eyes. For black you can use medicinal charcoal from the drug store, or experiment with pigment powders from different cosmetic makers, and mineral makeup is on the safe side.

These days, with all kinds of emulsifiers available, there should be much more option when experimenting, butters, oils, or perhaps back to purified (white) vaseline.

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